I have a thing about doors in Europe. I love the vibrant colors, the various sizes, their design .... they're simply interesting and add to the landscape of so many aesthetically pleasing cities on this continent. The door above has probably been around for quite sometime and has definitely been painted over and over again. It's likely not to have been sanded prior to the fresh coat of paint. Nor has it been replaced -- even if it doesn't fit quite so snuggly as it once did.

In addition to my obsession with photographing doors over here (that's hyperbole folks!), I have been enjoying Reading Lolita in Tehran. From the title, you can gain much about the book: there's a group reading western classics in Tehran, and it's probably not a celebrated group. It's immediately intriguing -- isn't there something fascinating about how a completely different culture receives Western thought and ideas?

 The book is divided into four sections. Thus far, I suggest reading the second section of the book and then going back and reading the first. While the second section has a cohesive narrative of the author's life, the first part is a bit disjointed -- albeit interesting. It's just that the first part of the book details the underground reading group taking place in the author's home, and that would have had a lot more meaning had I known more about the author herself. Anyway, it still seems worth a read!

MBA and I also saw Social Network last week. Do I even have to tell anyone this is the Facebook movie?

By the time it was released here, the film had received a lot of hype from all my American counterparts.  The movie itself is definitely a hyped up film -- it's intense,  and it tells a story a lot of people want to hear. The story I saw was one about people having an endless capacity for evil and for destroying themselves. You might see a story about how Facebook came in to existence. Someone else might see a story about Sean Parker's come back. While the directing was really well done, the actors impeccable, and the soundtrack by Trent Rezner superb -- I'm just not as "in" to this movie as most others. Allegedly, only 40% of it's true; but most people watching the film won't consider that. That bothers me -- there's a lot of re-creation going on there, and it affects real people's lives. Additionally, I think the movie could have used a light moment here and there. Overall, I just wasn't as impressed as I thought I was going to be. Goodness -- I am so going against the trend by saying all this!!!  I feel like such a rebel!

I know I'm going against the grain saying all this, so feel free to throw your own two cents in there!

What to Wear in Europe

Hello dear American friend,

I hear you're coming to visit Europe this summer. Very exciting news!  Now: what to wear while visiting the continent? That's the question!  Beyond feeling comfortable while you travel abroad, how you dress does play a part in your safety. When you look like a tourist, you also look like a target to potential pickpockets and scam artists. (Trust me on this one -- I've been there. I've dealt with the pickpocket while wearing a bright orange blazer and toting along a North Face backpack).

Keep in mind a few things about visiting Europe in the summer:

• It could be as hot as it is back in the US but it's also just as likely to be only 65 degrees outside.
• Europeans do not have closets the size of yours -- they mix and match and maximize what they've got.
• You're going to be walking. A lot.
• Not all countries have the same style! Italians have a different flair from the Germans and vice-versa! So keep in mind what country you're going to be in and dress accordingly.

I can always spot Americans by the following:

• White tennis shoes 
• Boot cut jeans
• Coach purses
• Lots of color

I can always spot tourists in general by:

• slow walking
• fanny-packs
• maps the size of Texas

Now back to what you need to know about what to wear come this summer:

First off, if you want to blend with the locals only straight-leg jeans, skinny jeans, and boyfriend jeans need apply. Don't get me wrong, I love my pair of Joe's boot leg jeans as much as you love yours, but over here -- it screams "I'm not from around here!".

Hence, you'll want to look for jeans like these:

or these:

But those shoes lead me to point number two. Stilettos are not going to work on cobblestone streets. You might be able to pop into the local bistro for dinner in a pair of high heels, but the hard work of touring all those historic sights must be done in something more practical.  While you can literally wear a pair of boots here well into June (our high is in the low 50's here today, and I'm wearing 'em now!), you'll need a comfortable pair of sandals or something better suited for a nicer climate. Here are a few options:

I wore this pair of Birkenstocks everyday last summer in Paris (and in Berlin and Prague), and I was not the only one donning these shoes around town -- plenty of Parisians were wearing Birks everywhere I looked. (And the Birkenstock shop in Marais was slammed all the time!). Make sure to give yourself a good three weeks to break in a pair of Birkenstocks before touring around on holiday in them.

I realize this is not news, but Cole Haan and Nike Air have joined forces to make all of our lives so much nicer! We can now have the look of a Cole Haan shoe but with the technology of a Nike sole. Talk about comfortable!  Here are just a few C.H. shoes I came across that would be perfect to wear while holidaying in Europe:

I snagged both these pictures off of Zappos; however, I saw the pair on the right at a Marshalls in America about a month ago. So you might be able to find a good deal out there!


Finally, bring a scarf! Instead of using one of the airplane blankets on your flight over, use your own scarf that can double as a wrap.  Then when you are over on the continent, you can use the scarf as the temperature ebbs and flows. (And if you visit Britain, it will definitely ebb and flow --- all within a matter of minutes!)

The color of this scarf brings me to my final advice: not too much color. Americans are not afraid of wearing hot pink leopard print cardigans. However, you're probably not going to find anyone over here wearing that. (If you want to be the first, that's fine!)

Overall, you're visiting Europe to have fun so don't worry too much about what you look like. There will be people that are way more fashionable than you (and probably employed by Prada) and plenty of people way less fashionable. Don't pack too much. Bring some great basics that are comfortable that you can mix and match -- and most of all: have fun!

[And if you need any more practical advice, feel free to email!]

It's Friday!

Hello dear friends ~

It's Friday! As my sister would say: "Whoot. Whoot!"


A few more items of importance:

1. Dare I say it ..... it's almost hot here! And it's not raining. Marvy!

2. I'm ready for a relaxing and fun weekend.

3. I discovered where to get French macarons in Edinburgh: L'ascargot Epicerie on Broughton Street.

That would be me in Paris last summer. The macarons in Edinburgh are not quite so large. But they do exist!!!

4. MBA and I recently tried Korean food. I wanted to try the kimchi but didn't. Wimp?

5. Other happenings this week:  MBA was also informed by an Armenian man running a pizza shop that he has lost his American accent. What?!?! But -- don't you worry -- he told me that I still sound very American. So rest easy!

6. Last but not least: 

This was the view off the back of the ferry from the Netherlands to England

This is the boat we were on:

I actually slept on that thing! A miracle indeed!

Coming into the harbor at Newcastle

Check out our luxurious room! We were high rolling.

The beautiful surroundings where we boarded the boat. Kidding! It was so industrial!

Hanging out on the top deck. They were trying to ooze a Caribbean cool vibe -- I'm not so sure it was working. Check out those sweaters and jackets.

More beautiful views!

The route between Amsterdam and Newcastle is highly trafficked. We passed plenty of other boats along the way.

Entering Newcastle

Now who wants to nominate MBA and me as candidates for the Amazing Race???

A Twist in the Story

So we had a delightful time in Germany and were ready to head back to Edinburgh first thing Monday morning. I was ready to get back into my routine, since just the week before I had been in the US. I had papers to grade and loads of legal work to get caught up on. And then an Irish guy in the lobby utters the forbidden words to me: Ash Cloud.

No!

I thought that was over a month ago!

Au contraire!

Not only were our flights canceled, but our airline -- the infamous Ryanair -- wouldn't allow us to rebook. They said they would, but when we tried (and tried and tried and tried), their system wouldn't work to get us rebooked on the next flight. I have a hunch that they purposely looped people through their website so they wouldn't have to pay hotel costs and fees. Just a hunch!

So we were left to our own devices.

Our devices led us to hiring a car in Munich and driving all the way to Amsterdam where we caught an overnight ferry to Newcastle, England. Hence, my recent travels didn't just call for a plane, a train, and an automobile. They also included the underground metro, a bus, and an overnight ferry.

And by the way -- if you haven't looked at a map lately, check out where Munich and Memmingen are in relation to Amsterdam. Not close. Try 800 kilometer drive. Combine that with the cost of gasoline over here = potential headache.

Anyway. Upwards and onwards. I've now been to Amsterdam! I have set foot in the Netherlands, and I liked it.

Amsterdam was such a vibrant, energizing city. We arrived a bit after 9pm in Amsterdam, checked into our hotel, and went in search of something to eat. MBA didn't have a good feeling about what would be open at 10 pm. To his surprise, we had a lot of options. Not only did we have options -- but they were swinging! Live jazz bands. Loads of funky, eclectic hole-in-the-walls. Plus, loads of "coffee shops." But that's not my thing.

We ended up at a little Dutch diner, which was half full at 10 pm on a Tuesday night. The waitress spoke beautiful English -- a nice surprise since we were in no way prepared for speaking a lick of Dutch. After asking for a recommendation, we were blessed with an amazing classic Dutch meal. We had a plate full of vegetables -- three scoops of mashed potatoes, red cabbage, Brussels sprouts, leeks, carrots, and green beans -- a dish of meat stew in gravy, and a side of homemade apple sauce. It was way more than I could eat, but it was delicious, and the combination of the three dishes was great!

MBA and I then took a stroll along the canals and around the blocks surrounding our hotel before calling it a night. Because our ferry left the following afternoon, we wanted to make sure we could hit the ground running come morning. And hit the ground running we did!

Check out how much this building was leaning -- completely normal for Amsterdam!

First things first, we went out for Dutch pancakes for breakfast. Dutch pancakes are crepes with loads of interesting toppings and fillings. You can choose from sweet or savoury. We both opted for savoury. No need for a sugar crash when you only have one day in Amsterdam! I enjoyed a massive apple and bacon pancake -- quite the combo!

After our breakfast we went on a walking tour laid out in the local tourist map (which was a really good map!). The two things I wanted to see in Amsterdam were the Anne Frank Museum and some Van Goghs. And of course the romantic canals!

We arrived at the Anne Frank museum right after its opening time and went right in. I definitely recommend arriving early to the museum. As we were exiting the museum, there was quite a long line to get in. So go early!

And I definitely recommend visiting the Anne Frank Museum. I've been to both the Yad Vashem museum in Jerusalem and the Holocaust Memorial Museum in D.C., yet something touched me differently about Anne's museum. The story of one little girl and her life hidden within the walls at 267 Prinsengracht was sad and captivating. Multiply the strength, the struggles, the stories times 6 million and its beyond overwhelming to comprehend. Digesting just one story that unfolded in one location, and there's a simple but profound empathy one experiences. Clearly, I think people should remember the Holocaust and learn from it by visiting all kinds of memorials for its victims. But a visit to this captivating hidden of home of Anne Frank personalizes things -- for that reason, you should definitely visit this museum when in Amsterdam.

The rest of the day we wondered the romantic streets and canals. Here's just a small glimpse of the coolness we saw in Amsterdam:

 Rembrandt's Former Home

Next stop: the ferry!

Munich

After we visited the small Alpine villages in south Bavaria, we headed into Munich for the remainder of the weekend. The city has well-connected public transport and their subway system was easy to navigate.

The heart of Munich

MBA and Scott at Weisses Brauhas

I actually really liked German food! We didn't have one bad meal. Impressive! Here are the establishments we checked out for meals in Munich:

Weisses Brauhaus

Hofbrauhaus

Augustiner Brauhaus
(this one is a bit more out of the center of tourist stuff but the food was incredible! Think dumpling and meat in a mushroom cream sauce. Yum!)

I know Scott's eating a salad in the above picture, but for the most part -- forget about eating green vegetables while in Bavaria. It's just likely not going to happen.

People were also pretty friendly. At Weisses, the lady sitting next to us was in town from Cologne for Church Day. She was ready to chat, but our German wasn't up to par and her English was a bit difficult to decipher. She recommended we visit the new Synagogue in Munich the next morning, but at first we thought she was recommending a church for us to visit. At least we all tried!

Saturday night in Munich

City Hall

The Jewish Museum and Synagogue

The exterior of the museum was covered in English and German quotations. The selection of transcripts they picked was quite odd. I expected their to be an element of remorse and sorrow ... or perhaps information about the gravity and severity of the Holocaust. I imagine its still difficult waters to wade though for Munich.

The Synagogue

Any of my friends that read Hebrew care to translate? Start from the right and go left. 

City Hall

Probably similar to Kilt Shops, but these storefronts were everywhere!

My favorite Munich door.

Ludwig's Residenz

While cold and not very populated, biergartens were everywhere.

 Gardens at the Residenz

 Although I already mentioned these guys to you, one more picture couldn't hurt anything. This escapade really perked up our visit to Munich.

Strangely, this is one of the things to see while in Munich. It's a massive alien. Hmmm....

The Isar River - it originates in the Alps

Parliament Building

A square that hosted quite a bit of Nazi activity

Overall, Munich was enjoyable but it's not a place I'm in a rush to go back to. There was nothing overwhelmingly alluring about the city. Instead, I'd want to get out into the countryside and explore more of the small Alpine towns and then head into Austria. Now that sounds like a plan!